Chef Cristina Bowerman’s perfect day in Rome
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Rome
Exploring Rome in just 24 hours can be an adventure, one easily filled with history, culture and, of course, delicious Italian cuisine.
My ideal day in Rome begins in the hip Trastevere neighbourhood with breakfast at Le Levain, the artisanal bakery of French-trained Giuseppe Solfrizzi, who is considered one of the top patissiers in the city. I usually opt for a cornetto or the apple tart and a cappuccino, as the aroma of freshly baked pastries fills the cosy space. It’s the perfect start to a day in this magical city.
Fuelled, I embark on a leisurely walk to the Fori Imperiali, where the ancient ruins stand majestically against the backdrop of the Colosseum. I’ve gazed upon these historic landmarks hundreds of times, immersing myself in the rich tapestry of Rome’s past, but the palpable grandeur of the Roman empire is no less exciting.
I pause for a snack at Supplì Roma in Trastevere, savouring the rustic Roman street food made of rice that it is named after, and taking in the diverse passers-by: people of all stripes enjoying a stroll; older women returning from the market laden with groceries; teens skipping school to enjoy the first of the summer sun. The vibrant atmosphere of Trastevere reflects the spirit of Rome, and is a perfect prelude to the culinary delights that await.
Next, I head to La Norcineria di Iacozzilli, a third-generation deli renowned for its pizza bianca with porchetta. The crispy, savouriness of pizza topped with succulent porchetta creates a symphony of flavours that leaves me craving more.
If in need of a moment of tranquillity (or a postprandial break), I often find it at Gianicolo (Janiculum), which is widely considered to be the eighth hill of Rome, and take in its panoramic views of the city. Here you can also visit the Garibaldi Monument, an equestrian statue in honour of the unification of Italy; the monumental Fontana dell’Acqua Paola; and the early-16th-century Temple of Bramante (the latter two sites were featured in Paolo Sorrentino’s The Great Beauty).
Otherwise, a leisurely stroll through Villa Borghese, the city’s famous landscaped park and gardens, provides a respite from the urban hustle, allowing me to connect with nature amid the lush greenery and peaceful lakes. About a 30-minute walk away in the Flaminio neighbourhood is the Maxxi museum of contemporary art and architecture, which always captivates my imagination.
What better way to cap off an afternoon of exploration than with a cold beer? I’ll venture back to Trastevere for a refreshing pre-dinner IPA or wheat beer at Big Star, a craft beer and cocktail bar with a lively ambience and local charm, then I’ll head back across the river for dinner at La Ciambella — a small upscale restaurant that is always a delight, where traditional Italian fare fills guests with warmth and satisfaction, and chef Francesca Ciucci and sommelier Mirka Guberti treat diners like friends or special guests.
As the night unfolds, I’ll head to Drink Kong cocktail bar, named one of the World’s 50 Best Bars, where the innovative mixology and chic vibe add a touch of glamour to a Roman adventure. Sipping one of renowned mixologist Patrick Pistolesi’s signature cocktails (my favourite is the Equinox, a bitter herb gin cocktail), I toast to the day’s adventures.
Before saying goodnight to the city, I play tourist again with a wish and a coin tossed into the Trevi Fountain, which has enthralled visitors and Romans alike since it was constructed in the 18th century. As the water sparkles in the moonlight, I’ll think yet again how this city has captured a piece of my heart, and promises to do so time and time again.
Cristina Bowerman is chef-patron of the Michelin-starred Glass Hostaria in Rome
What would your perfect day in Rome look like? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
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