Scene stealers: a guide to Rome’s stunning open-air cinemas

This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Rome

Over the summer, many cities around the world host film screenings under the stars. But Rome does it best.

From June until mid-September, outdoor cinemas become a fixture of the Roman summer. When temperatures finally drop in the evenings, locals flock to famed piazze and parks for lively screenings of celebrated Italian and international films. Some locations have seats and trucks or gazebos selling food and drinks, while others are more pared back and people bring their own rugs, foldable deck chairs, pizza and panini.

With movies shown in some of the most beautiful historic locations in the world, from the Villa Borghese to the Colosseum, the Eternal City offers an unparalleled alfresco film experience.

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Temple of Venus at the Colosseum

Watching films at the Colosseum is magical. In July, free screenings will be held in the space between the famous amphitheatre and the ruins of the Temple of Venus. Be there early: though there are 800 seats available but they fill up quickly, and there is often a presentation about the film an hour before the showing. Visitors this year can look forward to classics such as Bellissima by Luchino Visconti, Ettore Scola’s C’eravamo Tanto Amati (We All Loved Each Other So Much) and, of course, Roman Holiday by William Wyler, among others. (Italian films are subtitled in English.) Daily at 9.30pm, July 8–17, colosseo.it

Parco degli Acquedotti

Here you can catch movies introduced by their directors and actors, while sitting near the monumental ruins of an ancient Roman aqueduct (which you may recognise from Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita and Paolo Sorrentino’s La Grande Bellezza (The Great Beauty). The free screenings are shown in their original language (without subtitles for Italian movies). With more than 1,000 seats available, there is no need to bring your own, but they do tend to fill up so be there early (and pick up food and drink en route). Daily at 9.30pm, July 4–25, romacinemafest.it

Piazza San Cosimato

Located in the heart of the Trastevere neighbourhood, this picturesque piazza lights up this summer with free screenings of celebrated works by auteurs such as Stanley Kubrick, Orson Welles and Wes Anderson, shown in their original language with Italian subtitles. There are 500 seats, but you’re advised to get there early to grab one. Gelati, popcorn and drinks can be bought on site, though those seeking heartier fare should visit one of the nearby food shops or pizzerias offering takeaway. Wednesday–Sunday at 9.15pm until mid-July, ilcinemainpiazza.it

Parco di Monte Ciocci

To enjoy a film while taking in a spectacular view over Rome, head to this, one of the city’s newest parks (it only opened to the public in 2013). It’s free but there are no seats provided, so BYO cushion or chair (and a jacket too, as it can be chilly in the evenings). Panini, popcorn, French fries, fruit, soft drinks, beer and wine can all be bought on site. This year’s highlights include works by Jean-Luc Godard, Martin Scorsese and an in-person presentation of Motorcycle Diaries by its director, Walter Salles; Shrek, Shark Tale and Madagascar are among the animated features. Films are shown in their original language with subtitles. (The association that organises screenings in Piazza San Cosimato and Parco di Monte Ciocci also has an open-air cinema in Parco della Cervelletta, where you can see La La Land introduced by its director Damien Chazelle and Paolo Sorrentino on June 23). Wednesday–Sunday at 9.15pm until July 14, ilcinemainpiazza.it

Villa Borghese

In the stunning grounds of Rome’s largest public park, the Ettore Scola theatre, an arena with 300 seats surrounded by trees, offers free film screenings. Italian movies are not shown with English subtitles, but many are so well known — such as Dino Risi’s L’Ombrellone (Weekend, Italian-Style) — that non-Italian speakers will probably be able to follow them (and learn a bit of vocabulary too). English-language films (with Italian subtitles) include classic epics such as Lawrence of Arabia by David Lean and Sydney Pollack’s Out of Africa, alongside Life of Pi by Ang Lee and Alexander Payne’s The Descendants. Casa del Cinema, the association behind the screenings, has a restaurant nearby that offers takeaway pizza and drinks. Daily at 9.30pm until mid September, romacinemafest.it

Parco delle Mura Aureliane

Organised by a committee of local residents, Il Cinema alle Mura, a 10-year-old free film festival, takes place in the beautiful Aurelian Walls park. The screen stands in front of one of the longest and best-preserved ancient walls in the world, built in the 3rd century AD by Emperor Aurelian. There are more than 200 seats but you can also sit on your own rug on the grass. On-site food trucks sell hot dogs and hamburgers (with veggie options), beer and popcorn. This year’s programme ranges from Rear Window and Persepolis to A Star Is Born, while for children and nostalgic adults Finding Nemo and Shrek will also be shown (all in Italian without subtitles). Tuesdays and Thursdays at 9pm, June 21–August 1, @ilcinemaallemura

Tell us about your favourite Roman open-air cinema experience in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter

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