Renate Reinsve’s insider guide to Oslo

If you want to see Oslo at its best, come in the summer. The sun stays up for hours, daylight lingers into the night and everyone spends all their time outdoors. It’s like the city turns into one big festival for three months. Director Joachim Trier captured this beautifully in The Worst Person in the World, in which I played my first lead role. In the movie, Oslo becomes a character in its own right, animated by the energy of people flooding its streets after months of winter darkness. 

I see myself in the character Julie – whom the film follows as she navigates the city – and in much of what she does. The movie opens with Julie standing on the terrace of Ekebergrestauranten, a historic restaurant in a functionalist building from the late 1920s. I often go there when I have something to celebrate, popping champagne while enjoying the view over the Oslo fjord.

Like many Norwegians living here, I’m not originally from Oslo. I was born in a small town about an hour away and moved here when I was 18. I’ve always been drawn to the arts and wanted to be surrounded by people who shared my interests. 

Oslo has a rich cultural scene. There’s Kunstnernes Hus, Norway’s largest gallery under the direction of artists, which hosts great contemporary shows. It also houses a cinema where I often attend premieres. In summer, the gallery’s restaurant sets up tables in the front yard and serves delicious pizza. Then there are cultural landmarks like the Munch, which recently relocated to the waterfront, and the Opera House. I like to walk up to the Opera’s marble roof and take in views of the harbour, which has become a showcase of contemporary Norwegian architecture. When I’m in the area, I stop by Godt Brød bakery for a treat; the almond buns are my favourite.

Since winning the award for Best Actress at the Cannes Film Festival three years ago, I’ve been spending more and more time abroad. After five months in Los Angeles filming Presumed Innocent with Jake Gyllenhaal, I spent the first months of 2024 travelling around to promote four movies and a series. So when I’m back in Oslo, I like places that feel familiar. My go‑tos are Kafeteria August, a restaurant near the Royal Palace, and Becco, a natural-wine bar. They sit right across from each other in a small, tucked-away square: visiting is like stepping into my living room – everyone I know is there. 

I returned from the Oscars feeling so overwhelmed that I went straight to the forest 

I recently bought a house in St Hanshaugen, a beautiful residential area north of the city centre. My local café, Java, serves some of the best coffee I’ve ever tasted – I take its beans with me wherever I travel – and St Hanshaugen Park is a sanctuary. When I need time to think or work through a challenging role, I sit on one of the benches overlooking the city skyline. It always does its magic.

There are times when I need to completely disconnect: that’s when I head into the forest. People in Oslo have a strong bond with nature – it’s all around us and so readily accessible. I remember returning from the 2022 Oscars feeling so overwhelmed that I went straight to the forest east of the city, pitched a tent and slept there for a couple of nights.

On nights out, I like to drop by my local wine bar, Rouleur, which has a cosy and laidback atmosphere. I have to admit, my favourite drink is currently vodka Red Bull. I’m trying to make it a thing, and order one at every bar and restaurant I visit. Panu, a bistro and wine bar in the city centre, has a Polish owner who always serves the best vodka.

Oslo has changed a lot over the past decade. Having been under Danish and Swedish rule for centuries, Norway took some time to establish its own identity. You can feel this in the film industry too. I think we spent many years trying to emulate America. It wasn’t until we realised we could forge our own path – making bold choices, nurturing local talent and valuing authenticity – that we really began to thrive. You’re always stronger when you stay true to who you are.