When Europe started trading with Asia, as early as 130BC, one of the most sought-after treasures was pepper. Known as the “king of spices”, the most common variety – black pepper – is thought to be native to India. In the medieval era, pepper was often accepted as a way of paying tax or rent. Today it accounts for 20 per cent of the world’s spice trade. 

Fendi Perché No, £270 for 100ml EDP
Fendi Perché No, £270 for 100ml EDP

These tiny berries are also valuable to perfumers. For Acqua di Parma product and innovation director Paola Paganini, they bring “vibration and impact”. Launching next month, the brand’s Luce di Rosa scent uses black pepper to balance the sweetness of rose, giving a “gender-fluid dimension”. New York brand DS & Durga combines the fruit with pineapple and orange flower; and Penhaligon’s with plum and vanilla, in AlUla.

Penhaligon’s Alula, £215 for 100ml EDP

Penhaligon’s Alula, £215 for 100ml EDP

Gabar 04 (Nolita) Rise, £120 for 50ml EDP

Gabar 04 (Nolita) Rise, £120 for 50ml EDP

Acqua di Parma Luce di Rosa, £250 for 100ml EDP, launching 2 September

Acqua di Parma Luce di Rosa, £250 for 100ml EDP, launching 2 September

DS & Durga Black Magenta, £155 for 50ml EDP, libertylondon.com

DS & Durga Black Magenta, £155 for 50ml EDP, libertylondon.com

Pink pepper grows on a different plant to the black variety but is often blended with it in both perfumery and cooking. “It’s fresh, spirited and sparkling with a rosy overtone,” says Jouissance founder Cherry Cheng, whose latest launch, La Bague D’O, works with the berry to “defile” a floral bouquet.

Jouissance La Bague D’O, £180 for 50ml EDP
Jouissance La Bague D’O, £180 for 50ml EDP

For that is the joy of pepper. It can be bold: Fendi’s woody Perché No is named after Silvia Venturini Fendi’s favourite carefree expression, “Why not?” And it can be gentle: Myanmar brand Gabar uses pink pepper with lavender and cypress in the soothing 04 (Nolita) Rise. Gabar’s co-founders Phway Su Aye and Susan Wai Hnin advise spraying the fragrance everywhere. Unlike pepper’s culinary expression, there’s no such thing as too much. 

Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2024. All rights reserved.
Reuse this content (opens in new window) CommentsJump to comments section

Follow the topics in this article

Comments